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Olivença: Portugal’s Lost City

 

Set not far from the banks of the Guadiana River, where Portugal and Spain meet, lies the historic city of Olivença (or Olivenza). Although Olivença is geographically within Spain today, it has a rich Portuguese heritage that many locals still cherish. Once part of Portugal, Olivença represents a unique blend of cultures, with the ghosts of its Portuguese past whispering through its cobblestone streets, ancient walls, and Gothic architecture. Often referred to as Portugal’s “lost city,” Olivença stands as a reminder of a centuries-old territorial dispute and the intricate, sometimes tangled, histories of the Iberian Peninsula.

Iglesia_de_Santa_María_Magdalena_(Olivenza)._Interior

A City with Two Histories

Olivença was once firmly part of Portugal's Alentejo. After centuries of back-and-forth skirmishes between Portuguese and Castilian forces, the Treaty of Alcañices in 1297 officially recognized Olivença as a Portuguese possession. For nearly 500 years, Olivença thrived under Portuguese rule, developing its own culture, language, and architectural identity. In fact, Paulo da Gama (1465-1499), elder brother of Vasco da Gama, was born there.

But the winds of change came with the Napoleonic Wars in the early 19th century. In 1801, during the War of the Oranges, Spain, backed by France, seized Olivença.  Although Portugal has long invoked the Treaty’s self-revocation, as well as the Congress of Vienna in 1815, to claim its return, Spain continues to administer Olivença, which today also includes the municipality of Táliga. Despite the unresolved territorial dispute, the issue remains amicable between the two countries, and both Portuguese and Spanish influences can be found throughout the city. In recent years the bridge to Olivença was restored after being blown up by Spain in the 19th century, and residents who trace their linage back to Portugal have been granted Portuguese citizenship. The city remains Spanish today, with its complex identity reflecting this storied history.

Portuguese Legacy in Architecture

One of the most striking aspects of Olivença is its Portuguese architectural legacy, which can still be admired throughout the city. Walking through its streets, visitors will notice the Manueline-style windows, typical of the Portuguese Gothic-Renaissance blend, especially on the Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena, a 16th-century church that is a testament to Portugal’s influence on the city.

The towering remains of the medieval castle, built by the Portuguese in the 14th century, dominate the landscape, offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The fortress served as a crucial defensive outpost during centuries of warfare between Portugal and Spain. Despite the shifting borders, the castle still bears witness to its Portuguese origins, with inscriptions and symbols that tie it firmly to its past.

The Language of Olivença

Though Spanish is the dominant language today, Olivença's Portuguese roots run deep in the hearts of many locals. Older generations still speak Portuguese, especially in rural areas around the city. The dual-language signs, street names, and even the way people converse offer subtle hints of the city's complex heritage. For travelers interested in history and culture, this linguistic blend offers a rare glimpse into the peaceful coexistence of two nations within one city.

A Disputed Territory

Olivença remains a point of contention between Portugal and Spain, though the dispute is peaceful. Portugal has never officially recognized Spain’s annexation of the city, and to this day, Portuguese maps often show Olivença as part of Portuguese territory. However, the European Union has smoothed over most of the tensions, and both countries now share open borders, allowing citizens and travelers alike to move freely between the two nations, as open borders mean that for the first time in centuries, Olivença is reconnected to Portugal.

Castelo_de_Olivença_-_Duarte_D'Armas_1509

Exploring Olivença Today

For modern-day travelers, Olivença offers a unique experience of stepping back in time while simultaneously feeling the pulse of two nations. The city’s blend of Portuguese and Spanish influences creates a distinctive atmosphere, where both cultures coexist in harmony. Wander through the narrow streets, visit the Portuguese castle and Manueline church, and enjoy the quiet beauty of this small city that holds the weight of centuries of history.

Local cuisine is another highlight. The food in Olivença reflects its location on the border, with a mix of Portuguese and Spanish flavors. Traditional Portuguese dishes like bacalhau (salted cod) and hearty Spanish tapas both feature on restaurant menus, offering visitors the best of both worlds.

Why Visit Olivença?

Visiting Olivença is like peeling back the layers of Iberian history. It’s a city where every corner tells a story—of battles fought, territories lost, and cultures that have melded into something entirely unique. While it may not be on the typical tourist map, Olivença is an unpolished gem for travelers who seek to understand the complexities of history and geography.

Olivença might be a lost city to Portugal, but it is certainly not forgotten. It stands as a living reminder of the long-standing relationship between Spain and Portugal, a relationship defined by rivalry, shared history, and a mutual respect that endures to this day.

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