Discovering the Hidden Gems of Lisbon’s Lost Past
October 11, 2024
Lisbon may not have an “old town,” but instead offers an ensemble of historic neighborhoods, each with its own stories, secrets, and timeless charm. Over the last decades, tourism has transformed these areas, restoring monuments and reviving buildings into new hotels, eateries, and shops. Yet, with this resurgence, a bit of Lisbon’s classic charm has faded, replaced by popular international chains and very crowded selfie spots.
I still reminisce about the old Lisbon I knew as a kid. Rossio Square used to bustle with shoppers, double-decker buses, and beautiful stores like Loja das Meias and Braz & Braz. Classic cafés dotted the streets: Suíça, with the best chocolate cake ever; Picque-Nique for the younger crowd; A Tendinha, where locals gathered for ginjinha; and the stately Leão d’Ouro, which felt like stepping back in time. There were hat shops, wine shops, book stores, and paper shops. Many of these establishments have been replaced with chains like McDonald’s and Zara, and the iconic neon lights of the Rossio skyline have disappeared, as have the historic theaters of the Parque Mayer.
Was it tourism that transformed Lisbon’s heart? Not quite—it was in decline before the world “discovered” Portugal, but the influx accelerated the transformation of this faded but sweet capital into a bustling hub, resembling a mini Times Square with crowded streets, street performers, and even Elmo. Yet, even among the chaos, remnants of Lisbon’s wonderful past still persist, offering an authentic glimpse into the city’s past.
For those willing to look, gems like A Tendinha continue to be. Nestled in Rossio, this humble tavern has a storied history linked to fado legend Maria Severa, known as “A Severa.” Her music and legacy may still echo through the tavern, which opened in 1818, serving traditional snacks like rissóis de camarão (shrimp turnovers), croquetes de carne (beef croquettes), and sandes de presunto (ham sandwiches). A Tendinha’s interiors, lined with blue and white tiles, reflect an old-world charm that feels frozen in time. There is even a fado!
Another timeless institution in Lisbon’s food scene is Zé dos Cornos, near Martim Moniz Square. This spot serves up affordable and traditional Portuguese dishes without a hint of pretense or compromise. Down the street on Rua Portas de Santo Antão, Bom Jardim still fires up its famous grilled chicken and fries, just as it has for the past 70 years. Prices may have risen, but the taste remains steadfastly Portuguese here with O Rei dos Frangos. Further down, Ginja Sem Rival, a tiny spot, has served ginjinha shots to generations of Lisboetas and travelers alike, with a charm that has resisted the tides of change. Nearby the hidden gem of Casa do Alentejo is still a place of worship to the food of the Alentejo set in a reimagined Moorish palace.
For a memorable stay in the city, look no further than the historic Hotel Métropole. Set in the heart of Rossio Square, the hotel has welcomed travelers since 1917. Each room in Métropole is a time warp to old Lisbon. featuring prints by Almada Negreiros and offering views that stretch over Rossio and São Jorge Castle.
Lisbon’s classic charm may be faded in parts, but for those who know where to look, its Portuguese soul lives on. The many visitors walk on the graves of city lost, not unlike the Roamn ruins not far below the cobbles. From the ginja of A Tendinha to the timeless ambiance of the Hotel Métropole, these spots allow us to glimpse a Lisbon lost, where the history, culture and tradition were the soul of a busy city full of life, but not bucketlisters. Lisbon, capital of a nation pushing 900, will be back. We just have to wait...
Lisbon is Always Lisbon
From the alleys and the lanes
And the charming little houses
Of Alfama and Madragoa
With lovers at the windows
And the songs the people sing
The old cathedral, the processions, and the faith
With its street cries, Lisbon is always Lisbon
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