I think back to the late 1970s and 1980s in Portugal, a time many of today’s expats never experienced. I recall spending the holidays with my family in Coimbra. Coming from Chicago, it felt cold by comparison. My grandparents’ apartment, less than eight years old, had single-pane windows and no central heating. They used plug-in heaters sparingly. How did they, an upper-middle-class family, stay warm?

In the living room, there was a braseira—a round table with a heating element at its base, covered by a thick tablecloth. We sat with our legs tucked under the cloth for warmth. At night, Maria would place hot water bottles in our beds, making the cold sheets cozy. Sweaters were part of our daily wardrobe, and during the day, the bright sun warmed the apartment.

It’s common to hear expats say, “The houses here aren’t built for winter.” While this comment reflects cultural differences, it overlooks the history and context of Portuguese architecture. Rather than dismissing these homes, let’s explore why they are designed the way they are—and how to adapt to living like a local.

A History Shaped by Climate

Until the 1990s, Portugal was one of Europe’s poorest and most isolated nations. Resources were scarce, and homes were built to address the Mediterranean climate's long, dry summers:

• Thick Walls: Stone or brick walls provided natural insulation, keeping interiors cool during hot months.
• Small Windows: Limited sunlight exposure helped maintain cooler temperatures, especially in the south.
• Tile Flooring: Ceramic and cement tiles were durable and stayed cool underfoot.

Winter heating wasn’t a priority because the colder months are relatively mild and short compared to Northern Europe. Fireplaces, blankets, and layering were—and still are—essential. Older homes often featured large hearths for both cooking and heating as everyone sat by the fire.

A Shift in Expectations

Visitors from colder, wealthier nations may find Portuguese homes lacking the insulation or central heating they’re used to. However, this isn’t a flaw; it’s an opportunity to adapt to a different way of life. When properly upgraded with insulation, better windows, and mini-split systems, these homes can be comfortable—and they often outlast the wooden structures commonly found in North America.

Learning to Live Like a Portuguese

Adjusting to winter in Portugal involves adopting some tried-and-true practices:

• Dress for the Season: Wear layers, including sweaters and warm socks.
• Use Space Heaters Strategically: Heat only the rooms you use most, conserving energy.
• Close Shutters and Curtains: Shut persianas at night to retain heat and open them during sunny days for natural warmth.
• Invest in Insulation: Simple upgrades like draft stoppers and thermal curtains make a big difference.
• Embrace Blankets and Rugs: Add warmth and comfort to your living space.
• Use Firewood: Affordable and effective, a modern wood stove can significantly warm your home.

The Real Issue: Modernization and Development

Portugal is modernizing, and newer homes reflect this with better insulation and heating. However, the traditional architectural style was born out of centuries of necessity and a deep understanding of the local climate.

Rather than expecting Portugal to conform to Northern standards, visitors and newcomers should embrace the ingenuity of these homes, rooted in millennia of adaptation.

A Lesson in Adaptation

Portuguese houses aren’t poorly built—they’re built for Portugal. By living like the Portuguese—adaptable, resourceful, and in harmony with the seasons—you’ll not only stay warm but also gain a deeper appreciation for the culture and lifestyle of this beautiful country. It’s more work, but it costs much less and connects you to a history that spans centuries.

So, the next time someone says, “Portuguese houses aren’t made for winter,” remind them: they’re made for Portugal. That’s part of the charm of this ancient place you’ve chosen to call home.