Portugal has almost 900 years of history - centuries full of great writers and a love of the written word. So, many see the nation through  its libraries and bookstores to see far beyond the too-popular Livraria Lello in Porto. While Lello often steals the spotlight, there’s a treasure trove of unique, character-rich libraries and bookstores scattered across the country that beckon without lines and crowds. Here’s a guide to the best libraries and bookstores in Portugal, where history, culture, and community thrive.

1. Biblioteca Joanina – Coimbra

Set in the core of historic University of Coimbra, the Biblioteca Joanina is an 18th-century marvel. Its Baroque architecture, with gilded woodwork, frescoed ceilings, and intricate details, makes it a masterpiece of European libraries. Named after King D. João V, who commissioned its construction, this library houses more than 200,000 volumes, including some of the rarest works in Europe. The atmosphere is quiet and reverent, perfect for an immersive dive into centuries of knowledge. Book a guided tour to learn about the library's unique role as both a heritage site and a protected colony for bats, which help preserve ancient manuscripts by eating insects that would damage them.

2. Livraria Bertrand – Lisbon

A trip to Portugal isn’t complete without a visit to the oldest operating bookstore in the world, Livraria Bertrand. Established in 1732, this bookstore has survived earthquakes, fires, and wars, evolving from a small family business into a Lisbon landmark. Located in the commercial Chiado district, Bertrand offers a mix of classic and contemporary Portuguese literature and is a gathering spot for writers and intellectuals. Its cozy reading nooks and well-stocked shelves make it a delightful stop for anyone with an appetite for literature.

3. Palácio Nacional de Mafra Library – Mafra

For a touch of opulence, the library at the Palácio Nacional de Mafra is a must-see. Built in the 18th century, this library’s stunning Rococo architecture and white marble floors span nearly 85 meters, housing over 36,000 leather-bound volumes, including rare manuscripts. A fascinating fact about this library is that, like Biblioteca Joanina, it is also protected by bats that naturally control insect populations, preserving these ancient works. Guided tours provide fascinating insights into the library's history, and the impressive palace itself makes this a great day-trip destination.

4. Livraria Esperança – Funchal, Madeira

On  Madeira, Livraria Esperança is the oldest bookstore on the island and one of the largest in Portugal, boasting an impressive three floors filled with books from every genre. This bookstore has a storied history and was founded in 1886. Known for its warm, personal service and a vast selection of both Portuguese and international titles, Livraria Esperança is a gem for any book lover traveling through Madeira. It’s a warm place to lose yourself in literature, whether you’re interested in history, fiction, or travel.

5. Ler Devagar – Lisbon

Located in the cool LX Factory in Lisbon, Ler Devagar (“Read Slowly”) is one of Lisbon’s most happening bookstores. This eclectic spot, filled with unique artwork, has a vibrant, modern atmosphere and hosts a variety of cultural events, from readings to music performances. Housed in an old printing press, it still showcases printing machines and has a giant bicycle sculpture suspended from the ceiling. Ler Devagar is more than a bookstore; it’s a cultural hub and gathering place for Lisbon’s creative community, with an attached café that invites you to sit, read, and savor.

6. Livraria 100ª Página– Braga

In Braga, Livraria 100ª Página is a literary hideaway that’s enchanting. This historic bookstore is celebrated for its collection of rare Portuguese and international editions. The bookstore also has a beautiful interior, blending traditional Portuguese design with modern touches. Nestled in the heart of Braga, it offers a quiet space to discover lesser-known Portuguese authors or simply relax in its warm, inviting ambiance.

7. Biblioteca Pública de Évora – Évora

Situated in the UNESCO-listed city of Évora, the Biblioteca Pública de Évora is a  treasure. Founded in 1805, it holds one of the most important collections in Portugal, with historical documents and rare editions spanning centuries. The building itself is a blend of Gothic and Manueline styles, creating an architectural experience as enriching as the literature it houses. The library is also a hub for local exhibitions and workshops, connecting the community to its cultural heritage.

8.  Solar dos Salemas -Alcácer do Sal

Set in Alcácer do Sal's historic center, the Solar dos Salemas is a palace turned library. This Mannerist and Baroque monument, with a two-story enclosed courtyard, was reconstructed in the first half of the 18th century. It features a balcony and a 20th-century porch overlooking the Sado River. The manor was commissioned by Rui Salema around 1525 on land that did not belong to him, which caused some issues; however, in 1534, he obtained royal authorization to display the coat of arms now seen at the entrance of the house.

Today, after interior restoration and conservation work, the palace houses the city's Municipal Library.

Exploring Portugal’s Literary Landscape

These libraries and bookstores across Portugal offer more than just books; they offer experiences steeped in history, culture, and community. Each location has its own unique charm, from the majestic Biblioteca Joanina in Coimbra to the modern and inviting Ler Devagar in Lisbon. So, if you’re a book lover visiting Portugal, forget JK Rowling and make time to explore these gems that showcase the country’s rich written heritage and love for storytelling.