Ernest Hemingway famously wrote, "Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter's honor."

If you travel to Portugal hoping to experience its rich traditions, you may stumble upon one of the country’s most distinctive — and often misunderstood — cultural spectacles: the tourada, or Portuguese bullfight. But unlike the more famous Spanish version, Portugal’s bullfighting tradition carries unique customs, rules, and even a different spirit. And, the bull is not killed. Here's how to appreciate it — thoughtfully and respectfully — if you decide to go.

First, Know This: Portuguese Bullfighting Is Not a Blood Sport

The most important difference to understand: the bull is not killed in the arena during a Portuguese bullfight. While the event is controversial (and opinions vary greatly inside Portugal), many locals in the Alentejo, Ribatejo and on Terceira Island emphasize that their tradition is less about domination and death, and more about art, courage, and tradition.

In fact, in Portugal, it is illegal to kill the bull in public (with one exception). After the fight, the animal is often treated and retired to the fields.

Where and When to See It

Bullfighting is most common in Ribatejo, Alentejo, and the Azores, especially in rural towns where the culture remains strong. The most famous venue is Lisbon’s historic Campo Pequeno bullring, which hosts summer fights and festivals. In the Azores, particularly on Terceira Island, you’ll also see the beloved "tourada à corda," a different form of bullfight where bulls run through the streets on a long rope while young men show their bravado.

The bullfighting season generally runs from spring through fall, with major festivals often tied to religious celebrations or regional holidays.

Portugal’s 1st category bullrings include the Praça de Toiros da Moita do Ribatejo, Praça de Toiros de Almeirim, Praça de Toiros de Beja, Praça de Toiros de Coruche, Praça de Toiros do Montijo, Praça de Touros Carlos Relvas, Praça de Touros Palha Blanco, and Praça de Touros do Campo Pequeno.

The country’s 2nd category bullrings feature the Praça de Touros de Abiul, Praça de Touros de Aldeia da Ponte, Praça de Touros das Caldas da Rainha, Coliseu Figueirense, Praça de Toiros da Nazaré, Praça de Toiros de Alcácer do Sal, Praça de Toiros de Alcochete, Praça de Toiros de Estremoz, Praça de Toiros de Évora, Praça de Toiros de Montemor, Praça de Toiros de Portalegre, Praça de Toiros de Reguengos de Monsaraz, Praça de Toiros de Salvaterra de Magos, Praça de Toiros de Tomar, and Praça de Toiros do Cartaxo.

Portuguese bullfighting traces its origins back from Roman contests to the Middle Ages, with from noble warriors practiced their horsemanship and courage against wild bulls. Over time, these displays became formalized public spectacles. One pivotal moment in the history of Portuguese bullfighting is tied to the Count of Arcos in the 18th century. According to legend, during a bullfight at Salvaterra de Magos — a royal favorite for court festivities — the Count was thrown from his horse and killed. In response, King D. José   issued a royal decree banning the killing of bulls in the arena. This royal intervention helped shape the uniquely Portuguese style of bullfighting we see today, where the focus shifted from death to daring skill, artistry, and respect for the animal.

What Happens During a Portuguese Bullfight?

Portuguese bullfights unfold with a ceremony to being, and then in three distinct acts:

1. The Cavaleiro
   A horse rider, called the cavaleiro, enters the ring riding a beautifully trained Portuguese horse. Their task is to demonstrate grace and control by planting small darts (called ferros) into the bull’s shoulder muscle, designed to anger and engage the bull — but not to wound it. Watching the seamless dance between horse and bull is considered the art form’s purest moment. It follow's the rules set centuries ago by the Marquis de Marialva - father of the Count of Arcos. The rider dresses in the silk jacket and tan riding pants common at time of the death of the Count of Arcos, to honor his memory. If the display is a good one, then the order is given to play music, a reward for a good performance.

2. The Forcados
   Next comes a uniquely Portuguese tradition: the forcados, a team of eight brave men who challenge the bull head-on. Without weapons, they stand in a line and the frontman (the "pega") calls the bull into charging, attempting to wrap his arms around its head. His teammates then pile on to subdue the bull through sheer strength and teamwork. It’s not just about brute force — it's about bravery. The rabejador then holds the tail, so the others can walk off. The bull is then escorted out of the arena, alive, by a team of tame oxen.

3. The Final Act
   After the forcados' demonstration, the cavaleiro may return for a final pass with the band playing. 

How to Watch Respectfully

• Stay Open-Minded: Yes, bullfighting, even in Portugal, raises real ethical questions. You don't have to endorse it to observe and learn from it as a cultural tradition.

• Dress Respectfully: At major bullrings like Campo Pequeno, audiences often dress smartly for the event, blending tourism with an air of solemnity.

• Observe the Crowd: The audience’s reactions — the claps for a well-executed move, in silence when a forcado calls the bull — are part of the experience. It’s a window into Portuguese pride, history, and shifting values.

• Know Your Limits: If you think the spectacle might be too emotional, or if you firmly oppose animal performance, you may want to explore Portugal's many other cultural expressions instead — such as fado music, village festivals, or equestrian shows, which also celebrate Lusitano horses.

Portuguese bullfighting is not for everyone, and it's okay to approach it with a mixture of fascination and caution. But if you want to understand Portugal beyond its beaches and pastries, witnessing a tourada (even once) offers a glimpse into a deep, layered national identity — one that is still evolving today.

Whether you choose to sit in the stands or simply learn about it from afar, appreciating the nuances and contrasts of Portuguese culture is part of what makes traveling here so unforgettable.